Mölln

By Max Stolbynsky

Mölln is not so big town with population about 18 thousands. It placed in the south-eastern part of the Schleswig-Holstein, not so far from the border with land Meklenburg-Vorpomeranen. This town placed far from the popular tourists routes, more directed to Luneburg or Lubeck, but it has ling and interesting history. 

Knight Conrad Wackerbart has established small peasant settlement here between  1165 and 1180. In documents, 1-st notice about Mölln is dated 1188 year. It was Lubeck Privilege issued by Frederic I Barbarossa. But in  1202 this area became under Danish protectorate and stay there about 25 years. In 1227, after the victory in the war with Danish army, Duke Saxen-Launeburg have joined this area.

Also, at the beginning of XIII century in this area was established standalone parish and St. Nickolas was selected as  patron of Mölln. Later, on the lake shore was built big St. Nickolas church. This church is still active now.

From XIV – XV centuries Mölln became more and more important because of it’s placement. Old Salt Route, which is going from Luneburg to Lubeck is passing through the Mölln. Salt mined in the Luneburg was transported to the Lubeck and then was shipped over whole Ost (Baltic) sea. Due this activity Mölln and Ratzeburg became new strongholds for the Hansa.

Old Salt Route was active until end of XX century. In XIX century was created water channel, which linked Elbe river with Ost(Baltic) Sea. This channel is passed via Mölln and Ratzeburg.

At the current time Mölln is small, clean and silent town. Heavy industry is missing here, on the shores of many lakes and rivers there are many hotels and pensions. This area is ideal for people who like silent rest in the forest or on the river.

Another symbol of the town is Till Ulenspiegel. He is funny and reckless character of the folk stories so popular in XVI century. People say that Till was born in Brunswick, he passed many roads over Germany, Belgium and France. And passed away in 1350 in Mölln during the plague. But many scientific believe, there were no single prototype of the Till, he was a collective image.

But citizens are proud to be part of the legend. There is a sculpture of Till Ulenspiegel on the central square of the town and many other relative attributes.

So, the easiest way to get to the Mölln is railway. Mölln is placed near the railway linking Luneburg and Buchen with Lubeck and Kiel. If you want to get to the Mölln you need to go via Buchen or Lubeck.

For me easiest way to get there from hamburg was to use connection via Buchen. Big regional express in direction to Rostok departures from Hamburg central station every hour. In 40 minutes there is connection to train in direction to Lubeck at Buchen station. !0 minutes moth then enough for transfer: Buchen is pretty small station. But it has strange line numeration: 1, 4, 41 and 140. But nothing difficult, whole station is open and it is so difficult to lost there.

In difference of  Rostok train, train to the Lubeck is also regional express, much smaller. Train consist of 2-3 cabs and powered by diesel engine. This type of trains connecting Keil in the Nord with Luneburg on the South.

The way from Buchen to Mölln takes about 10 min. And here is finally Mölln station. This railway direction seems not so overloaded. Railway station of Mölln has just single line, used by trains in both directions.

Station is on the western side of thown, on the shore of Ziegelsee Lake. To get to the historical center of the town, you need to walk about 15 minutes in north-east direction.

In 500-600 meters you can see central bus station and there begins Hauptstraße – Main street of the old town.  It passing via canter and bridge between Lakes  Stadtsee and Schulsee.

The banner over the street informs about 455-th (!!!) autumn agriculture fair.

If you turn left form the Main street and step down to the lake, you can see small harbor where you can rent small boats or buy tickets to the small ship.

If you go to eastern direction, you can get to the central square am Markt. There are concentrated most popular attractions of the Mölln: old Rathaus, museum, St. Nickolas church, Till Ulenspiegel sculpture.

At the underground floor of the Rathaus you can find small restaurant with traditional name: Rathaus Keller.

St. Nickolas church is built on the top of the hill and dominates over whole area. And autumn is dominating in the air. Bright colors and smell of the leaves are making amazing opinion.

Old center of the Mölln has many old buildings. Air of this area is really full of history. But there are not so many people. This route is really not so popular for tourists.

If you go to south and cross over moat, you can see big park (Kurpark). This park is so clean and well maintained. But keep in mind: at the night time it is closed and you need to go out before for avoid to spend night and sleep in the park 🙂

This was the end of the trip. It is autumn now and sunset is so early.

Trip info:

– total time: 7 hrs

– stay in Mölln: 3,5 hrs

– route: 7 km

– budget: 20 euro